Month: April 2018

AKO 5003 & 5004 CD + Product Catalog

So this is mostly just a “public share” of an old AKO CD. You actually need this disc to use an AKO 50003 or 50004. The software is Windows 10 compatible.

Only the software package for 5003 and 5004:

https://s.agx.co/2018_04/001-AKO/AKO_5002_and_5003.7z

Ako full CD package (everything from CD in one archive):

https://s.agx.co/2018_04/001-AKO/ako.7z

PDF from the CD:

https://s.agx.co/2018_04/001-AKO/Pdfs/

You need RS232/serial port to use the AKO devices. It is a wide connector, which can trick you into believing the device needs an LPT (parallel) port, but that is wrong. It’s a serial port. Just get a converter that turns the wide port into a short one and call it a day.

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The bad side of the cloud: LiquidSky 2.0 Review

This review has been a long time coming. I wish I never had to post this article in fact. I wish Cloud Gaming would have never had such companies.

What is LiquidSky?

It’s a Cloud Gaming Service. Okay, what’s that, you might ask.

Instead of having a powerful PC or gaming laptop at home, you can just rent a very powerful machine far from your home and you can play games on almost any PC. Sounds good, right? Well, it can be good. There are good providers – I will put them at the bottom of the article – but bad ones also started popping up. Take LiquidSky for example.

But it wasn’t always bad. LiquidSky is called 2.0 at the moment. A few months ago LiquidSky forced a new interface and ecosystem on to the users. They promised unparalleled gaming performance. Everyone was hyped of course. People loved LiquidSky 1.0, but the GPU performance was not that good. It could run most games on normal details, but if it would have received a bit of a bump, it would have been a gamer’s dream come true.

What was LiquidSky 1.0?

  • The service had a solid client. It worked perfectly, it never dropped the viewer and the input lag was negligible.
  • The CPU performance was absolutely great.
  • I/O performance was superb. I could install games with 100+MB/s and do several other tasks without any slowdown at all.
  • The service had 1TB of storage.
  • The stream quality was excellent. On lower bitrates the grass became a bit blurry, but nothing too bad. It was really good. If you pumped up the settings, the picture quality became very sharp, it was like playing locally. It’s not just rose-tinted glasses, it was that good.
  • The service had a very low monthly price tag. 9.99$. I cannot recall all the details, maybe it was for 80 hours of gaming, but for me, that covered all my entire month. I mean 80 hours as a working man, for 9.99 only? Yes, please.

So it was a good service overall. There were things that you could improve upon, but it was a solid offer.

What went wrong with LiquidSky 2.0?

Everything.

First, the launch.

It was supposed to be a glorious launch. After LS1.0 shut down, we had to wait a week or so – and then we would have all access to 2.0. We were so hyped. But the launch just did not want to come. When the first date hit, we were informed that they hit a few issues. Nothing big we thought. So we waited a week. Then another. And another.

Then finally we hit the “now we will finally launch now for like really real” date. We were all on the site that day, but as you would already suspect by this time, nothing happened. What did happen though is that people got trolled mad by the very staff of LiquidSky. If someone told me I would be also skeptic, but I believe it’s still on their forums. They basically kept asking people for more forum posts and kept saying if they reach this or that number, the service will launch. People took days off their jobs, they were waiting now for weeks. Everyone was anxious, tired, and still hyped. And we got trolled.

Of course the service launched after some 12 hours later, but no one could connect, it crashed immediately. Good times.
Long weeks came after this ‘launch’ while no one could really connect. Some people, somewhere, sometime were able to start up the lowest tiers. There was a single person who had a real screenshot from the working 2.0 machine on the forums in the first month. Wow.

The real problems only came later, though.

 

Closing thoughts?

I had this thought in the back of my head ever since the botched 2.0 launch, but never really thought about it. When we started receiving ‘updates’ that were nothing but tiny bug fixes and just dirty workaround (i.e.: one update added “boarding groups”, another took them out), I started to get suspicious.

 

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How to change YI DashCam Chinese to English (CABACA version)

To do this, you will need the following items:

  • Yi Dashcam. CABACA serial/model, grey color. I only had the gray to try, but there is a forum post where the original tutorial was posted – where it says the black version will NOT work! Proceed with caution if you have the black one.
  • A USB charger with at least 1A output.
  • A computer with an SD card reader. (most laptops have a reader)
  • The attached “FWCARC10 (4).bin” file.
  • The attached “Emergency Aid” “FWCARC10.bin” (this can be downloaded from here directly: https://www.yitechnology.com/yi-smart-dash-camera-firmware)
  1. Take out the memory card from the camera
  2. Insert card into your computer
  3. Format the Memory Card (fat32, no label, default settings)
  4. Copy the “FWCARC10 (4).bin” file to the device, rename it to “firmware.bin”
  5. Eject SD card safely from your computer
  6. Put the SD card into the camera
  7. Put the power cable from the 1A charger into the camera.
  8. Power on the camera, accept the update with the LEFT button. (You can use Google Translate on your smartphone to read any errors/info messages.)
  9. It will start working, ~3 minutes or so. Let it work. Once it completes, it will say “Adaptation fail, access denied”. Don’t panic, things are going OK.
  10. Remove power cable, SD card. Put SD card into computer again. Format it again.
  11. Copy over the “FWCARC10.bin” to the SD card, rename it to “firmware.bin”. Eject SD safely again.
  12. Add SD to the camera, plug in the 1A charger, boot the camera. It won’t display much but the yellow led will blink left and right. After 3-5 minutes it will boot up, now in English.

Enjoy! Now you have an English serial/firmware Yi camera.

FAQ:

  • Why is the firmware called “(4)” and “FWARC” and whatnot?
    The original uploader called it (4) and I kept the name. The (4) is a modified firmware file I guess, and the normal one is the simple “Emergency mode” that you can grab from Yi. You always have to rename the candidate to “firmware.bin”.
  • I have read that you just have to write a “engmode” and serial number file to the device to make it english…?
    That seem to work on various models. But no on this “CABACA” one. I was in the same shoes, trust me.
  • My device won’t flash, won’t do …
    Make sure you are using a CHARGER and not your computer! You need a separate charger for the firmware stuff no matter what. There is no going way around this.

Also, make sure you use a “SD card for cameras”. Here is one example: https://www.sandisk.com/home/memory-cards/microsd-cards/high-endurance-microsd

You can start using a dashcam with any SD card, but most cards will die very fast from the continuous recording. Just get a high endurance one and you will be good for a long time.

 

Tutorial was originally posted here: https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/threads/convert-yi-dashcam-serial-cabaca-convert-to-english-version.31453/

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AKO 5002 & 5003 CD + Catalog PDFs

The software to access your AKO 5003 and AKO 5004 can be downloaded here:
It is Windows 10 compatible.

https://s.agx.co/2018_04/001-AKO/AKO_5002_and_5003.7z

The PDF can be viewed here (hopefully Google will index it sooner or later):

https://s.agx.co/2018_04/001-AKO/Pdfs/

The whole ISO image is here:

https://s.agx.co/2018_04/001-AKO/ako.7z

(Uploaded them in 7z, they have no password and of course they are just a raw rip of the original old CD disc. I have no clue why AKO decided NOT to share the programs and PDF files online.)

Make sure to use RS232 – aka. serial port to connect to your AKO device. The RS232 converter that AKO gives has a wide-RS232 which can trick you into believing the device needs an LPT port. But, it uses serial. So just get a wide-to-short RS232 cable / converter and it will work just fine, even on Windows 10.

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